12:12 p.m.

Automatic Watch Maintenance: Frequency, Overhaul, and Best Practices

Entretien d’une montre automatique : fréquence, révision et bons gestes

An automatic watch can function for years without showing obvious signs of weakness.

Yet, inside, the movement can gradually degrade.

Oils dry up, gaskets lose their elasticity, accuracy slowly drifts, and some parts may start to work with less lubrication.

Therefore, a watch that still tells time correctly is not necessarily a watch in perfect mechanical health.

The maintenance of an automatic watch primarily depends on its use.

A watch worn daily, exposed to water, shocks, perspiration, temperature variations, or magnetic fields will not age like a watch worn occasionally with care.

The same movement may require servicing sooner or later depending on how it is used.

This guide explains when to service an automatic watch, what signs should raise an alert, what daily habits to adopt, and why preventive maintenance remains the best way to preserve a mechanical watch over time.

Why watch maintenance depends on its use

An automatic watch is a mechanical object composed of many moving parts.

Wheels, pinions, springs, jewels, balance wheel, oscillating weight, bridges, mainplate: each component plays a precise role.

When the watch is running, these parts constantly interact.

To limit wear, certain friction points are lubricated with specific oils.

These oils do not last indefinitely.

Over time, they degrade, migrate, dry up, or lose effectiveness.

When lubrication becomes insufficient, the movement sometimes continues to function, but the parts work less efficiently.

Wear increases, accuracy decreases, and a simple service can turn into a more extensive repair.

This is why you should not wait for a breakdown to maintain an automatic watch.

Lubricating oils: the key point

In a mechanical movement, oils play an essential role.

They reduce friction, limit wear, and allow the movement to maintain regular operation.

A regularly worn watch constantly stresses its oils.

A watch worn in demanding conditions stresses them even more: humidity, shocks, thermal variations, pressure, perspiration, dust, or sand.

Conversely, a watch stored for several years without being worn is not necessarily preserved.

Oils can degrade over time, even if the movement is not used much.

Prolonged storage therefore does not negate the need for maintenance.

In both cases, intensive wear or long periods of inactivity, lubrication eventually loses its effectiveness.

Seals: invisible but essential

Seals ensure the watch's water resistance at sensitive points: crown, case back, crystal, pushers when present.

They are generally made of flexible materials that naturally age.

Over time, they harden, compress, lose their elasticity, and protect the case less effectively.

The problem is that this degradation is not always visible.

A watch may seem perfectly waterproof until the day moisture enters the case.

At that point, damage can be rapid: oxidation, fogging under the crystal, marks on the dial, corrosion of movement components.

This is why water resistance must be checked regularly, especially if the watch is exposed to water.

How often should an automatic watch be serviced?

For an automatic watch worn regularly, servicing starting from 5 years is a reasonable recommendation.

This frequency can vary depending on usage, movement, wearing conditions, and manufacturer recommendations.

Some brands announce longer intervals for certain modern calibers.

However, these intervals often assume moderate, careful, and lightly exposed use.

For a watch worn daily in real-world conditions, 5 years remains a cautious baseline.

A diving watch, a field watch, a watch worn for work, or a watch used during physical activities deserves more regular attention than a dress watch worn a few days a month.

Uses that warrant increased vigilance

Certain uses accelerate the aging of an automatic watch.

  • Regular diving or swimming: pressure, humidity, salt, chlorine, and thermal variations strongly stress the seals.
  • Intensive professional use: shocks, dust, humidity, or repeated movements can accelerate wear.
  • Impact sports: direct or repeated impacts can disrupt the movement.
  • Exposure to magnetic fields: phones, speakers, magnets, computers, or induction hobs can affect accuracy.
  • Prolonged storage: a watch rarely worn may also need servicing, as oils age over time.
  • Complicated watches: GMT, chronograph, or other complications add extra parts and friction points.

The more exposed the watch is, the more attentive you should be to signs of fatigue.

Signs that should raise an alert

You should not wait for a complete breakdown before consulting a watchmaker.

Certain symptoms indicate that an automatic watch deserves a check-up.

  • Unusual deviation in accuracy: the watch is running much faster or slower than before.
  • Reduced power reserve: the watch stops sooner than usual after being worn or wound.
  • Difficult winding: the crown snags, becomes stiff, or produces an unusual sensation.
  • Abnormal time setting: the hands no longer move with their usual fluidity.
  • Unusual noise: rubbing, grinding, or clicking different from normal operation.
  • Fogging under the crystal: a sign of moisture in the watch and therefore an emergency.

Fogging under the crystal should always be taken seriously.

In this case, you should stop wearing the watch and entrust it quickly to a watchmaker.

Moisture can cause significant damage in a short time.

Checking with a timing machine

Before a complete overhaul, a watchmaker can perform a check with a timing machine.

This device measures the movement's rate, its amplitude, and certain parameters useful for diagnosis.

The check can be performed in several positions to observe the watch's actual behavior.

This test does not replace an overhaul, but it helps determine if the watch already shows significant deviation or abnormal mechanical behavior.

If the results are good, the overhaul can sometimes wait.

If the results worsen, it is better to intervene before wear becomes more costly.

Good daily habits

Maintaining an automatic watch is not limited to servicing.

Daily habits play an important role in its longevity.

A well-used watch ages better than a watch worn without care.

These gestures are simple, but they make a real difference.

The crown: the most common weak point

The crown is one of the most sensitive parts of a watch.

It allows for winding, time setting, and sometimes date adjustment.

But it is also a potential entry point for water and moisture.

Before any contact with water, ensure that the crown is perfectly closed.

On a watch with a screw-down crown, it must be properly screwed against the case.

On a watch with a push-pull crown, greater caution is needed, even if the watch claims water resistance.

For swimming or diving, a screw-down crown remains the safest solution.

This is essential for diving watches and watches regularly exposed to water.

Why you should avoid showering with a watch

Showering is one of the most aggressive environments for a watch.

It combines heat, dynamic pressure, steam, and chemicals.

Hot water expands materials. Steam can infiltrate more easily than liquid water. Soaps, shower gels, and shampoos can attack the seals.

Even a watch advertised as waterproof can see its seals degrade faster if it is regularly worn in the shower.

It is therefore better to remove your watch before washing.

This advice applies even to a sports watch.

A watch's water resistance is designed to withstand water under specific conditions, not to regularly endure heat, steam, and chemicals.

Rinse and dry after salt or chlorinated water

After swimming in the sea or a pool, the watch should be rinsed with clear fresh water.

Salt and chlorine can attack the gaskets, finishes, strap, and certain metal surfaces.

After rinsing, the watch should be dried with a soft cloth.

This simple step helps limit deposits and preserve the watch's external condition.

Avoid unnecessary shocks

An automatic watch remains a precision mechanical object.

It can be robust, but it is not indestructible.

Direct impacts on the wrist, repeated vibrations, or violent shocks can disrupt the movement.

Certain sports are riskier than others: contact sports, tennis, golf, CrossFit, or activities with repeated impacts.

A well-designed sports watch can withstand active use, but its design should be consistent with its intended use.

A dress watch is not meant to be worn under the same conditions as a technical watch.

Beware of magnetic fields

Magnetism can disrupt the functioning of a mechanical watch.

A magnetized watch can run fast, sometimes by several minutes a day.

Magnetic sources are numerous: smartphones, speakers, computers, magnetic clasps, headphones, induction hobs, bag magnets, or accessories.

It is therefore preferable to avoid placing your watch directly on or against these objects.

The good news is that demagnetization is usually simple and quick at a watchmaker's.

But the ideal is still to avoid repeated exposure.

What to do when the watch is not worn?

If an automatic watch remains unworn for several weeks, it can be manually wound occasionally.

A few turns of the crown are enough to restart the movement.

It is not necessary to overwind it.

For prolonged storage, choose a dry, stable place, away from direct light, humidity, and magnetic sources.

A watch winder can be useful for certain complicated watches that are difficult to set.

But it is not essential for a simple automatic watch.

A poorly adjusted or continuously used winder can even unnecessarily stress the movement.

For a regularly worn watch, the wrist remains the best winder.

What a complete overhaul includes

A complete overhaul is a structured technical intervention.

It does not just involve opening the watch and checking that it works.

Depending on the condition of the watch and the type of movement, it may include:

  • initial diagnosis;
  • movement disassembly;
  • component cleaning;
  • parts inspection;
  • gasket replacement;
  • eventual replacement of worn parts;
  • lubrication adapted to different friction points;
  • reassembly;
  • precision adjustment;
  • tests in multiple positions;
  • water resistance control when the watch requires it.

A serious overhaul takes time.

It requires appropriate tools, specific consumables, and genuine watchmaking expertise.

This explains its cost.

How much does an automatic watch overhaul cost?

The price of an overhaul depends on the movement, its complexity, and the condition of the watch.

A simple three-hand watch does not require the same amount of time as a chronograph or a GMT.

The price does not depend solely on the value of the watch.

It mainly depends on the work required on the movement.

Preventive maintenance is generally less expensive than a repair after neglect.

When a movement has run too long with dry oils, certain parts can wear prematurely. The cost then increases rapidly.

Indicative table of Akrone overhauls

Movement type Indicative price What's included
Automatic 3-hand 200 to 250 € Disassembly, cleaning, oiling, gaskets, adjustment, tests
GMT or chronograph 250 to 450 € Complete overhaul with complication intervention
Replacement parts Upon quotation Worn, damaged, or specific parts to replace

These amounts are indicative and may vary depending on the actual condition of the watch.

A quote must always be established before intervention.

For an Akrone watch, service requests go through the after-sales service page.

Discounted watches, vintage watches, and dormant stock

An automatic watch can be commercially new, but mechanically old.

A watch that has been in stock for a long time, displayed in a window, handled, or regularly reset is not in the same condition as a recently assembled and controlled watch.

Its gaskets have aged. Its oils have begun to degrade. Its accuracy may have changed.

This does not mean that you should systematically avoid a discounted watch or an exhibition watch.

But this reality must be factored into the purchase.

A significant discount can be attractive if you know that the watch may need a check or an overhaul sooner.

The real question is not just the advertised price.

It is the actual mechanical condition of the watch, its history, and the quality of follow-up offered by the seller.

Choosing the right service provider for an overhaul

During the warranty period, you must go through the brand's workshop.

An external intervention can void the warranty, even if performed correctly.

Out of warranty, a qualified independent watchmaker can perfectly service a standard automatic movement.

Oils, gaskets, and common wear parts are available from specialized suppliers.

The limitation concerns components specific to the watch: case, dial, hands, proprietary crystal, crown, or certain parts designed for a collection.

For these elements, it is often necessary to go through the brand.

Before entrusting a watch to a workshop, you should check a few simple points:

  • does the workshop have a timing machine?
  • do they provide a written quote before intervention?
  • do they announce a realistic timeframe?
  • is water resistance control planned if necessary?
  • does the price seem consistent with a true complete overhaul?

A serious overhaul is not done in 48 hours.

Too short a deadline or an abnormally low price may indicate that certain steps are missing.

The Akrone workshop: overhaul, adjustment, and after-sales service

The Akrone workshop provides overhaul and follow-up for the brand's collections.

The advantage is simple: watches are handled by a team that knows the models, the movements used, the specifications, and the constraints specific to each collection.

The protocol includes diagnosis, adapted intervention, adjustment, and necessary checks before restitution.

Movements are adjusted with a precision objective consistent with the brand's level of demand.

Some specific Akrone parts remain reserved for the workshop: cases, dials, crystals, hands, or elements specific to certain collections.

For routine maintenance revisions outside of warranty, an independent watchmaker can work on standard movement components.

However, for a complete overhaul or replacement of specific parts, a visit to the Akrone workshop is recommended.

Frequently Asked Questions

My watch is working fine. Do I still need to have it serviced?

Yes, if it reaches the recommended service interval or if it has been heavily used.

A watch can function correctly even if its oils are old or its gaskets are aging.

Preventive servicing often avoids more extensive repairs.

Can I shower with a water-resistant automatic watch?

It's best to avoid it.

Showering combines heat, steam, pressure, and chemicals. This environment accelerates the aging of gaskets, even on a water-resistant watch.

What is the difference between a screw-down crown and a push-pull crown?

A screw-down crown mechanically locks against the case.

It offers better water security, provided it is properly closed.

A push-pull crown is simpler, but it may be less secure for repeated immersion or swimming.

Does a watch that is rarely worn need to be serviced?

Yes, because oils age over time, even if the watch is rarely used.

A watch stored for a long time may therefore require servicing or at least a check-up.

How long does a full service take?

The timeframe depends on the workshop, the period, and the complexity of the movement.

A thorough service usually takes several weeks, as it includes diagnosis, intervention, adjustment, and testing.

Should a used watch be serviced?

If the service history is unknown, it is recommended to have it checked.

A used watch may function correctly but still require servicing soon.

The potential cost should be factored into the purchase price.

Why do some brands announce 10 years between revisions?

Certain modern calibers and oils allow for longer intervals under controlled usage conditions.

However, for a watch worn daily, exposed to water, shocks, or temperature variations, an earlier service may be preferable.

Key Takeaways

The maintenance of an automatic watch depends on its actual use.

A watch worn regularly, exposed to water, shocks, or dust will require more attention than a watch worn occasionally.

The simple rule is to plan a service from 5 years for a regularly worn watch.

Intervene earlier in case of significant deviation, reduced power reserve, fog under the crystal, or unusual behavior.

Daily gestures are essential: check the crown, avoid showering, rinse after the sea or pool, dry the watch, avoid unnecessary shocks, and limit exposure to magnetic fields.

Preventive servicing costs less than repair after damage.

It is also what allows a mechanical watch to remain reliable, precise, repairable, and transmissible over time.

A well-maintained automatic watch is not just a watch that works.

It's a watch that can continue to be worn for a long time.

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