Choosing a watch also means choosing what powers it.
The movement isn't just a technical detail.
It influences accuracy, maintenance, lifespan, how we relate to time, and how we use our watch daily.
There are three main families: manual-wind mechanical movements, automatic movements, and quartz movements.
These technologies don't work in the same way.
They don't have the same history, advantages, or constraints.
None is universally superior to the others.
The right choice depends on the intended use, budget, the relationship one wants to have with their watch, and the level of maintenance one is willing to accept.
The Manual Mechanical Movement: Traditional Watchmaking Gesture
For several centuries, all watches were manual-wind mechanical.
The principle is simple in concept, but very refined in execution.
A mainspring stores energy when the watch is wound with the crown.
This energy is then gradually released through a gear train.
The escapement regulates this release and causes the balance wheel to oscillate at a regular rhythm.
It is this oscillation that allows time to be measured.
The manual mechanical movement requires a regular gesture: winding the watch every day or every other day depending on the power reserve.
This constraint can be perceived as an inconvenience.
But for some enthusiasts, this is precisely what makes it interesting.
The wearer maintains a direct connection with their watch.
They participate in its operation.
Manual winding is therefore less practical than an automatic or quartz movement, but it offers a more conscious relationship with the object.
The Automatic Movement: Everyday Mechanics
The automatic movement operates on the same basic principle as a manual mechanical movement.
The difference lies in the rotor.
This oscillating weight rotates with wrist movements and gradually winds the mainspring.
As long as the watch is worn regularly, it recharges naturally.
This explains the success of automatic watches.
It retains the appeal of a mechanical movement, without requiring daily winding.
It simply needs to be worn.
If it remains stationary for several days, it will stop.
It must then be wound slightly and reset to the correct time.
The power reserve varies depending on the caliber.
It is often between 40 and 72 hours, sometimes more on some recent movements.
The automatic watch is therefore very suitable for regular use.
It offers a good balance between mechanical pleasure, wearing comfort, and durability.
The Quartz Movement: Precision and Simplicity
The quartz movement operates on a different logic.
A battery powers an electronic circuit that makes a quartz crystal vibrate at a very regular frequency.
These vibrations are converted into impulses that drive the hands.
The result is very precise.
A standard quartz watch often deviates by a few seconds per month, whereas a mechanical watch is measured in seconds per day.
Quartz also has other advantages: low maintenance, often more accessible price, great robustness, ease of use.
Generally, the battery only needs to be changed every two to three years and the water resistance checked if the watch is exposed to water.
Quartz does not have the same mystique as mechanical watches.
It does not offer the same pleasure of observation, winding, or transmission.
But it remains a very relevant technology for many uses: professional watches, sports watches, precise watches, watches that are easy to wear without constraints.
A History Marked by the Quartz Crisis
The arrival of quartz profoundly disrupted watchmaking.
In 1969, Seiko marketed the Astron, the first mass-produced quartz wristwatch.
Its precision was far superior to that of mechanical watches of the time.
This innovation caused a major crisis in the Swiss watch industry.
Many brands disappeared, jobs were lost, and a portion of the market shifted towards electronics.
For a time, some thought that the mechanical watch would become marginal.
However, it did not disappear.
From the 1980s and 1990s, mechanical watches found a different place.
They no longer sought to beat quartz on pure precision.
They became an object of craftsmanship, pleasure, transmission, and longevity.
Today, quartz, manual mechanical, and automatic coexist.
They simply meet different expectations.
How does a mechanical movement work?
A mechanical movement relies on an energy chain.
The mainspring is housed in a barrel.
When wound, it stores energy.
This energy then passes through a series of wheels and pinions that transmit the movement to the escapement.
The escapement releases energy in small, regular impulses.
The balance wheel then oscillates at a given frequency, often 21,600 or 28,800 vibrations per hour depending on the movement.
The more regular this oscillation, the more accurate the watch.
But this regularity depends on many factors: movement quality, adjustment, watch position, temperature, winding level, shocks, lubrication, and general condition of the caliber.
This is why a mechanical watch requires periodic maintenance.
This topic is discussed in more detail in our guide on automatic watch maintenance.
How does an automatic movement work?
An automatic movement uses this mechanical principle.
It adds a rotor, visible on many watches with transparent case backs.
This rotor rotates with wrist movements.
Its movement gradually recharges the mainspring.
If the watch is worn daily, it generally remains wound.
If it remains unworn for several days, it eventually stops when the power reserve is exhausted.
Contrary to popular belief, an automatic watch can also be manually wound on most modern calibers.
This is even recommended when it has completely stopped.
A few turns of the crown allow the movement to restart correctly before wearing it.
How does a quartz movement work?
A quartz movement uses a battery and an electronic circuit.
The quartz crystal vibrates at a very stable frequency when subjected to an electric current.
This frequency is then divided to produce a regular impulse, usually once per second.
This impulse drives a stepper motor that advances the hands.
This is why the second hand of a quartz watch often moves in one-second jumps.
This jerky movement is not a defect.
It simply reflects the operation of the motor.
Some higher-end quartz movements are thermo-compensated.
They correct temperature-related variations and can achieve even greater precision.
Quartz is therefore a very efficient technology, especially when the main objective is precision.
Comparative table of movements
| Criterion | Quartz | Manual Mechanical | Automatic |
|---|---|---|---|
| Power Source | Battery | Manual winding | Rotor and wrist movement |
| Typical Precision | A few seconds per month | A few seconds per day | A few seconds per day |
| Maintenance | Battery and water resistance check | Mechanical overhaul | Mechanical overhaul |
| Main Constraint | Battery replacement | Regular winding | Stops if not worn |
| Strong Point | Precision and simplicity | Ritual and mechanical finesse | Balance between use and mechanics |
| Ideal Use | Precision, sport, simple use | Ritual, collection, dress watch | Daily wear, versatile watch |
Adjustment: What Makes the Difference
A movement does not always perform at its best when it leaves the factory.
Two watches equipped with the same caliber can have different performances depending on the adjustment, casing, and controls performed.
On a mechanical movement, the watchmaker adjusts the amplitude of the balance wheel.
They measure the deviation in several positions: dial up, dial down, crown up, crown down, crown left, or crown right.
Each position reveals a different behavior.
A watch lying flat does not behave exactly like a watch worn on the wrist.
Gravity influences the balance wheel and can create small variations in rate.
An adjustment in several positions helps to limit these deviations.
This is what distinguishes a simply assembled watch from a truly adjusted watch.
Precision Certifications
Some watches can obtain a precision certification.
The best known is COSC, in Switzerland.
In France, the Besançon Observatory issues the "Tête de Vipère" (Viper's Head) certification, a historic hallmark revived in the 21st century.
These certifications control precision according to demanding protocols, with tests over several days, in multiple positions, and at different temperatures.
The Tête de Vipère certification has an important particularity: it applies to the cased watch, meaning the complete watch, and not just the movement alone.
These topics are further elaborated in our article on watch certifications.
Akrone's Adjustment Process
At Akrone, every mechanical movement is inspected and adjusted in the workshop before the watch is shipped.
The objective is to achieve a consistent rate in several positions, with precision adapted to the collection's demanding standards.
This work applies to the automatic movements used depending on the models: Sellita, Soprod, Miyota, or France Ébauches.
Adjustment does not transform one caliber into another.
But it allows for the best possible performance level to be achieved.
This is an important step, as the final precision does not only depend on the movement's name.
It also depends on the adjustment, casing, quality control, and the coherence between the caliber and the watch that houses it.
This point aligns with a broader idea: in a mechanical watch, the movement matters, but the workshop's work matters too.
To understand the evolution of movement suppliers, you can consult our article on Swiss movements and alternatives to ETA.
Which movement to choose depending on its use?
Quartz is the best choice if you are primarily looking for precision, simplicity, and freedom from constraints.
It is well suited for work watches, sports watches, watches that are highly exposed, or for people who simply want a reliable watch without complications.
Manual mechanical is more for those who appreciate the watchmaking ritual.
It requires regular attention but offers a direct relationship with the movement.
It's a more contemplative, more traditional choice.
Automatic is often the best compromise for a mechanical watch worn daily.
It recharges naturally with wrist movements, stays alive, doesn't require a battery, and retains the appeal of a mechanical movement.
This is the most common choice among contemporary mechanical watch enthusiasts.
And for a durable watch?
Durability does not depend solely on the type of movement.
A simple quartz watch can last a long time.
A poorly maintained mechanical watch can be damaged.
An automatic watch equipped with a difficult-to-repair caliber can cause problems over time.
For a watch that you want to keep for a long time, you need to consider several criteria: caliber reliability, parts availability, assembly quality, water resistance, after-sales service quality, and overhaul possibility.
However, a mechanical or automatic watch has a strong advantage: it can be disassembled, maintained, repaired, and passed down more easily in the very long term, provided that parts are available.
This is what we explain in more detail in the article dedicated to the durable mechanical watch.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a mechanical watch and an automatic watch?
An automatic watch is a mechanical watch.
The difference lies in the winding mechanism.
A manual mechanical watch must be wound by hand with the crown.
An automatic watch winds itself thanks to a rotor that rotates with wrist movements.
Does an automatic watch need to be hand-wound?
Yes, when it has stopped, it is recommended to wind it slightly by hand before wearing it.
This allows the movement to restart correctly and prevents it from running too long with insufficient power reserve.
Is quartz less noble than mechanical?
Not necessarily.
Quartz is less valued in the traditional watchmaking imagination, but it can be very precise, reliable, and technically interesting.
Some high-end quartz watches are extremely well designed.
Mechanical simply offers a different relationship with the object: maintenance, visible movement, repairability, and transmission.
What is the accuracy of an automatic watch?
A well-adjusted automatic watch can achieve a deviation of a few seconds per day.
Exact performance depends on the caliber, adjustment, wearer, resting position, movement condition, and maintenance.
How long can an automatic watch be left unworn?
This depends on its power reserve.
Most automatic watches have a power reserve of between 40 and 72 hours.
Beyond that, they stop and must be wound and reset.
Should you choose an automatic or quartz watch for a first purchase?
For a simple, practical, and precise purchase, quartz is often more rational.
To discover mechanical watchmaking, automatic is generally the best choice.
It offers the pleasure of a mechanical movement without the daily winding of a manual watch.
Key Takeaways
There is no perfect movement.
Quartz offers precision, simplicity, and ease of use.
Manual mechanical offers ritual, tradition, and a direct connection to the movement.
Automatic offers a balance between mechanical pleasure and daily use.
The best choice therefore depends on the wearer.
A good watch is not just a watch equipped with a good movement.
It is a watch that is consistent with its use, well designed, well assembled, well adjusted, and capable of being maintained over time.
That consistency is what makes the difference between an appealing spec sheet and a watch you actually keep.
